Wednesday, February 20, 2019

Scotland - Drummond Castle August 2018

If you love formal gardens, you would love a visit to Drummond Castle. While you can't tour the castle itself, you can wander the gardens to your heart's content. I love any kind of garden and  Mike especially loves formal gardens so this place was a win-win for us. They have beautiful terraced and sculpted gardens and also some woodland walking paths to enjoy. Loads of roses were blooming when we were there. We were also treated to a nice sunny day.  It also has one of the longest tree-lined driveways I've ever seen.


Scotland - Glamis Castle and Dunnotar Castle August 2018

Glamis Castle was the childhood home of Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, best known as the Queen Mother. If you're into the royal family, this would be a stop you'd want to make. They have the Queen Mother's bassinet and there is a painting of the main room with the Queen Mother and another relative playing cards as children, and all the furniture is still the same. They have great ghost stories there too, one about a lady in the chapel and one about the lord whose ghost is still playing cards behind a sealed-up wall.

Dunnotar Castle is a castle ruin located on a promontory overlooking the ocean on Scotland's east coast. We arrived in sunshine but in true Scottish fashion, a rainstorm broke loose. Since Dunnotar is a ruin there isn't much cover but we found a place to get out of the rain until the worst of it had passed. The reward though was the beautiful double rainbow over the castle. Dunnotar is a true fortress-castle, having seen many battles. In the 13th century, William Wallace (Braveheart) attacked and killed an entire garrison of English troops here with just a few men. In the year 900, Donald II, King of Scots, was killed here by Vikings after a vicious battle. Mary, Queen of Scots, visited in 1562. Everyone understood that to control Dunnotar was to control this entire stretch of coastline.

By the time we left the castle, the sun was out again and warmly shining down on us. We strolled a little way along the bluff behind the castle, just taking in the ocean views. We saw a bride and groom having photos taken at the castle and also down in the beach below- what a great setting for that.

                                                 

Scotland - Skye to Pitlochry August 2018

We left Portree on the Isle of Skye and stopped at the iconic Eileen Donan Castle. When you see photos of Scotland, this is the castle most often shown.

The tour of the castle is self-guided, though there are docents to answer questions. We were enjoying the castle and reached the Great Hall.  As we were leaving that room, we noticed an anteroom next to it with a small door in the wall about eye level. Being the curious type, we opened it and realized we could see into the Great Hall. We returned to the Hall and asked the docent about it. He was a very nice young man and explained that the opening was a peephole for watching and eavesdropping on what was happening in the Hall. He then pointed out several more of them around the room. He said the lord of the castle would station soldiers in these areas to watch and listen for trouble, especially if the lord was meeting with opposing groups who might try to harm him.

We also learned an interesting fact about the plaids (tartans) that are worn. I always thought that each clan had always had its own tartan. There was a display in one of the rooms of the various tartans worn by the inhabitants of the castle and what event they were used for - some were for hunting, some were ceremonial, etc. One of the older docents explained that tartans originally were different colors just because of the materials available for dying them. For instance, a clan in the northwest might have different plant dyes than a group in the southeast. And the dyes might change with the seasons as well. The tradition of wearing a specific tartan came about as the clans gathered and wanted to distinguish between the different groups.

We left the castle and made the drive through Glencoe (see my post about this from 2012) to the pretty town of Pitlochry. This was a nice place to stop and spend the night and the town itself is quite charming, flower baskets hanging from all the lampposts. Near Pitlochry, there is a place called Killiecrankie. There is a story told about a soldier fleeing for his life who made an incredible leap across the river at this site. We decided to go check it out. It's a fairly short walk from their visitor center to the spot where the leap took place. I have to say I would not want to try jumping across at that spot! I mean you probably could do it if you had a running start and were very athletic but if you don't make it you hit some rocks and land in the river. Ouch! And you would be a sitting duck for the people chasing you.


Scotland - Isle of Skye August 2018

We have been to Scotland before and stayed on the Isle of Mull. This time we went to Skye for a few nights and I would love to go back someday.

The weather had been sunny and glorious for 3 weeks- before we got there. When we arrived it became cold, windy and rainy. We always adapt to the weather and don't let it interfere with our plans too much, so we just carried on with most of our plans.

I had arranged a private lesson with a local photographer for one day. I like to take photos when we travel but I am definitely just a hobby photographer, so this was a chance to improve my skills.  We met up with Tim at 8:30am and set off for the day. Mike was appointed the dog-watcher for the day as Tim had just acquired a rescue dog and didn't want to leave him alone at home all day. So Mike and Tweed spent the day hanging out together. We stopped at the old bridge at Sligachan then continued on to a spot with a lighthouse. After snapping some shots there, we took the road to Elgol - stopping along the way at Kilchrist church ruins and also to take photos of Highland cattle (love those hairy things!). The beach at Elgol is really unusual, very rocky and you can see the Cuillins (mountains) across the water. So up until this point the weather had been cold and windy but not rainy. We decided to head back toward Sligachan to get some waterfall photos and the rain just cut loose. It's difficult to get photos with raindrops all over your camera lens and I was freezing by that point also we called to quits.  By this time it was 5:30 or so in the evening and I was ready for a nice hot dinner. I'll add some of the photos from that day to the blog.

Our plan the next day was to drive to the Quiraing, or at least the Old Man of Storr and Kilt Rock. The weather was looking pretty good as we drove north and it was nice and sunny when we got Kilt Rock. Despite all the rain there wasn't a ton of water coming over the falls but it was still pretty. We made it to the trailhead for the Old Man, along with lots of other people. The walk up is pretty easy and a well-worn path. By now however the clouds and fog had come in and pretty much obliterated the view of the rocks and pretty much everything else, so we turned around and headed to the other side of the island to Dunvegan Castle.

Dunvegan Castle is the seat of the chief of the Clan MacLeod and dates back to the 13th century. There are very nice gardens there and the inside of the castle is worth touring as well.

Neist Point lighthouse was our next stop and the last one for the day as it was getting close to sunset and Mike didn't want to negotiate the narrow road after dark. After taking a bunch of photos and saving a lady from falling in a creek, we headed back. Now the key to driving on these narrow roads is to know when you're supposed to pull over in a wider spot to let someone pass you from the other direction and they need to know how as well or things get all screwed up. Well, guess what?  Somebody didn't know the routine so everybody got screwed up and one car even blew a tire trying to pull off on the verge in a bad spot. In 2012 on our trip to Scotland we got an excellent piece of advice from a local lady who said do not pull off on the verge (edge of the road) because in Scotland it is very soft and you will get stuck - soooo we avoid the verge! Luckily we made it back to Portree without any mishaps.

There are some things we wanted to see that we just didn't have time for, so we definitely need to go back!
                                   Old Man of Storr in the background
                                 Neist Point lighthouse
                                  Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls

Scotland - Edinburgh August 2018

We hadn't planned on taking a big vacation this year,  but the Edinburgh Military Tattoo and the high tide at Mont Saint-Michel in France just happened to coincide with each other so off we went!

The Tattoo is a show with pipe and drum bands, military bands, and international music groups as well. There were groups there from the U.S., Czech Republic, Mexico, Oman - lots of variety.
We had heard really good things about it and it didn't' disappoint. They hold the show right at the entrance to Edinburgh Castle with the various groups coming out through the castle gate.

One of my favorite parts was when the pipe and drum bands came marching out through the gate, it was cool with the lighting and they just seem to continue to pour through that gate like they'll never stop! The other cool part is at the end of the show, when the the lone piper stands at the top of the castle ramparts and plays a song.

There were lots of specialty bands. Drum bands and historic bands, AV displays, dancing, some of the bands were even on horseback! I love to watch the drum bands play each other's drums and toss their sticks around, one group even had firework sparklers on their drumsticks!

The people sitting behind us were really excited. Their grandson was in one of the military pipe bands and was selected to be in the show. They were keeping a keen eye out for him as the bands came through the castle gate, and then - there he was!- they were so happy.