Sunday, September 20, 2015
Durnstein and the Wachau Valley
Friday 9/18- Many visitors to this area visit the impressive Melk Abbey. We saw the abbey at Melk on our last visit, so we decided to visit the Gottweig Abbey nearby. While not as ornate or impressive as the abbey at Melk, it was still a pleasant place to visit. There is a restaurant with a terrace overlooking the surrounding area and it was a beautiful sunny day, so we decided to enjoy some apple strudel and ice cream on their terrace. Yum!
We also visited the ruined Aggstein Castle. The road up was a little confusing as it didn't really look like a road, more like someone's driveway really. But we persisted and were so glad we did because there was indeed a parking area at the top. If we had stopped and parked down below, it would have been quite a hike to get up there. We saw one couple who were walking down the hill and it was fairly apparent that one of them was not happy with the other. We're pretty sure one of them had insisted on parking at the bottom instead of trying to go further up the road and now they were both regretting that decision. Glad that wasn't us!
The castle is relatively intact for a ruin, we had fun climbing the various towers, stairs and platforms. From the top tower you could see all the way to Schonbuhl Castle which is situated on a huge rock outcropping further down the river. We had to hurry a little at the end because it had clouded over and started to rain on us. We do love exploring those old castles though!
Today is Saturday, our 3rd day in Durnstein. We took the little people-and-bike ferry across the river to get some photos of Durnstein from the other side. We then drove down to St. Michaels's to see the fortified church there and check out the little rabbits on the roof, it has to do with a local legend about a huge snowstorm that piled snow so high that the little rabbits just walked right over to the roof of the church. They were then frozen there forever, poor bunnies.
There was a concert festival last night and again tonight directly across the river from our hotel so we've been treated to a free concert for 2 nights. I have to say I'm really liking a couple of the songs, I'll have to try to find them on iTunes. Tonight was really special though because upriver they released a bunch of floating flames to float thei way down the river. It was hard to tell exactly, but they appeared to be a floating disc (maybe frisbee-sized) with a small flame on it. The effect of all these little firelights floating down the river in the darkness was just beautiful. And then there were fireworks! What a perfect evening!
One funny thing though, when we did the Danube River cruise 6 years ago they brought a local folk music group onboard to entertain us. They sang local music but then they also sang "Country Roads" - you know, the old John Denver song. Then later that same week, we were in a different town and there was a group of 20-something kids at the fortress. One of the girls had a guitar and was singing "Country Roads"! I remember thinking, what are the odds of that? We never hear that song at home anymore but we've heard it twice in one week in Austria and Germany.
Well at this concert in Durnstein, one of the performers sang......you guessed it! "Country Roads"! I just laid in bed and laughed at that. Mike was asleep so I didn't wake him up. The next night, they sang it again! I'll have to see if some Austrian group also recorded it.
We hate to leave Durnstein and our lovely hotel but we are moving on to Salzburg tomorrow.
We also visited the ruined Aggstein Castle. The road up was a little confusing as it didn't really look like a road, more like someone's driveway really. But we persisted and were so glad we did because there was indeed a parking area at the top. If we had stopped and parked down below, it would have been quite a hike to get up there. We saw one couple who were walking down the hill and it was fairly apparent that one of them was not happy with the other. We're pretty sure one of them had insisted on parking at the bottom instead of trying to go further up the road and now they were both regretting that decision. Glad that wasn't us!
The castle is relatively intact for a ruin, we had fun climbing the various towers, stairs and platforms. From the top tower you could see all the way to Schonbuhl Castle which is situated on a huge rock outcropping further down the river. We had to hurry a little at the end because it had clouded over and started to rain on us. We do love exploring those old castles though!
Today is Saturday, our 3rd day in Durnstein. We took the little people-and-bike ferry across the river to get some photos of Durnstein from the other side. We then drove down to St. Michaels's to see the fortified church there and check out the little rabbits on the roof, it has to do with a local legend about a huge snowstorm that piled snow so high that the little rabbits just walked right over to the roof of the church. They were then frozen there forever, poor bunnies.
There was a concert festival last night and again tonight directly across the river from our hotel so we've been treated to a free concert for 2 nights. I have to say I'm really liking a couple of the songs, I'll have to try to find them on iTunes. Tonight was really special though because upriver they released a bunch of floating flames to float thei way down the river. It was hard to tell exactly, but they appeared to be a floating disc (maybe frisbee-sized) with a small flame on it. The effect of all these little firelights floating down the river in the darkness was just beautiful. And then there were fireworks! What a perfect evening!
One funny thing though, when we did the Danube River cruise 6 years ago they brought a local folk music group onboard to entertain us. They sang local music but then they also sang "Country Roads" - you know, the old John Denver song. Then later that same week, we were in a different town and there was a group of 20-something kids at the fortress. One of the girls had a guitar and was singing "Country Roads"! I remember thinking, what are the odds of that? We never hear that song at home anymore but we've heard it twice in one week in Austria and Germany.
Well at this concert in Durnstein, one of the performers sang......you guessed it! "Country Roads"! I just laid in bed and laughed at that. Mike was asleep so I didn't wake him up. The next night, they sang it again! I'll have to see if some Austrian group also recorded it.
We hate to leave Durnstein and our lovely hotel but we are moving on to Salzburg tomorrow.
Austria 2015/ Durnstein and the Wachau Valley
Thursday, 9/17 We left Vienna and drove north to beautiful Durnstein on the banks of the Danube River in the Wachau Valley. We stopped here one day on a riverboat cruise in 2009 and have always wanted to return. We booked a room at the Hotel Richard Lowenherz which is inside the city gates and the pedestrian area. You can only drive into the pedestrian area of you live in Durnstein or are staying at one of the few hotels that offer parking. It was a little nerve-wracking to drive through a very narrow street that is barely wide enough for one vehicle and a couple of people walking along the street. We managed to make it to the hotel without taking out any pedestrians or our side mirrors. The hotel was absolutely wonderful, a former convent and originally a church in 1340. The convent garden is still lovely and some of the old church walls are still standing. We had a spacious room overlooking the Danube River.
After settling into our room, we went out to see if we still knew our way around;) That's funny because Durnstein is tiny, so there's little chance of not finding your way. Our favorite bakery is still there, not surprising I suppose since they have been in operation since 1780! They bake everything on the premises, fresh every day. I know they supply many of the local hotels and restaurants with baked goods because I saw their proprietors in the bakery. They make a wonderful roll called a Wachauer Laberl-delicious! Mike is a pretzel fan and Schmidl's pretzels definitely meet with his approval. They make a variety of pastries and desserts too. Needless to say, they saw us every day - sometimes a couple of times a day! Ok, maybe 3-4 times a day;)
There is a legend that Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned for ransom for 2 years in Durnstein's Kuenringer Castle on his way back from the Crusades. We hiked up to the castle ruins high above the town. The view from up there is fabulous. You can see the Danube, the pretty blue church tower, the vineyards, all the boats coming and going. This area is known for its vineyards and white wines also. I did have a glass with dinner one night and it was very nice, a variety called Gruner Veltliner.
After settling into our room, we went out to see if we still knew our way around;) That's funny because Durnstein is tiny, so there's little chance of not finding your way. Our favorite bakery is still there, not surprising I suppose since they have been in operation since 1780! They bake everything on the premises, fresh every day. I know they supply many of the local hotels and restaurants with baked goods because I saw their proprietors in the bakery. They make a wonderful roll called a Wachauer Laberl-delicious! Mike is a pretzel fan and Schmidl's pretzels definitely meet with his approval. They make a variety of pastries and desserts too. Needless to say, they saw us every day - sometimes a couple of times a day! Ok, maybe 3-4 times a day;)
There is a legend that Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned for ransom for 2 years in Durnstein's Kuenringer Castle on his way back from the Crusades. We hiked up to the castle ruins high above the town. The view from up there is fabulous. You can see the Danube, the pretty blue church tower, the vineyards, all the boats coming and going. This area is known for its vineyards and white wines also. I did have a glass with dinner one night and it was very nice, a variety called Gruner Veltliner.
Vienna/Schonbrunn Palace
Wednesday, 9/16
Today is the day we go out to our favorite place in Vienna, the Schonbrunn Palace. We hopped on the subway just a couple of blocks from our hotel and managed to figure out we were going the wrong direction after just a couple of stops, so we hopped off and got on the train going the right direction ;)
We walked in through the main gate and into the ticket office. I wasn't sure what the wait would be like, but we practically walked right up to the ticket desk. There was a guided tour in English at 11 am, so we just had about a 45 minute wait. We always prefer an actual human guide instead of an audio guide because we find them so much more engaging, so a little wait was ok with us.
Our tour guide was John, British by his accent. He was very informative, and answered everyone's questions pleasantly and with good humor. Our group was only about 10 people, so that was nice too. We took the Grand Tour and saw lots of rooms in the Palace, something we didn't have time to do on our last visit. Lots of information about the Hapsburgs and their dynasty in Austria and Hungary. We're always amazed when we think about the number of people it would have required just to keep a place like that functioning every day during the 1700's-early 1900's. We finished the tour around noon and decided to have a bit to eat at the cafe.
After lunch we headed out to the gardens - our favorite part! The beautiful flowers and fountains, trees, reflecting pond and Gloriette, we think it's one of the loveliest gardens we have ever seen. The gardens also include a zoo and maze and cover 52 hectares, which equates to almost 130 acres. It was quite warm again today, so we took a break at the Gloriette for a cool drink and just enjoyed the view. Lots of people out doing the same thing, just enjoying the beautiful setting and clear sunny weather.
Today is the day we go out to our favorite place in Vienna, the Schonbrunn Palace. We hopped on the subway just a couple of blocks from our hotel and managed to figure out we were going the wrong direction after just a couple of stops, so we hopped off and got on the train going the right direction ;)
We walked in through the main gate and into the ticket office. I wasn't sure what the wait would be like, but we practically walked right up to the ticket desk. There was a guided tour in English at 11 am, so we just had about a 45 minute wait. We always prefer an actual human guide instead of an audio guide because we find them so much more engaging, so a little wait was ok with us.
Our tour guide was John, British by his accent. He was very informative, and answered everyone's questions pleasantly and with good humor. Our group was only about 10 people, so that was nice too. We took the Grand Tour and saw lots of rooms in the Palace, something we didn't have time to do on our last visit. Lots of information about the Hapsburgs and their dynasty in Austria and Hungary. We're always amazed when we think about the number of people it would have required just to keep a place like that functioning every day during the 1700's-early 1900's. We finished the tour around noon and decided to have a bit to eat at the cafe.
After lunch we headed out to the gardens - our favorite part! The beautiful flowers and fountains, trees, reflecting pond and Gloriette, we think it's one of the loveliest gardens we have ever seen. The gardens also include a zoo and maze and cover 52 hectares, which equates to almost 130 acres. It was quite warm again today, so we took a break at the Gloriette for a cool drink and just enjoyed the view. Lots of people out doing the same thing, just enjoying the beautiful setting and clear sunny weather.
Austria 2015/ Vienna
Sunday, 9/13
Arrived in Vienna today to warm weather! Quite a change from our last trip to Europe. We made the connecting flight to Vienna from Amsterdam- but just barely. Unfortunately our luggage did not make the flight, but I was prepared for that possibility so we had enough clothes to last a couple of days. We checked into our hotel and went out walking for a bit, getting our bearings as it's been several years since we last here.
On our second day in Vienna, it was overcast with possible rain so we decided to see some museums. We went to the Hofburg and saw the Sisi exhibit and the silver collection. The silver collection is mildly interesting but not something I would consider a must-see. The Sisi exhibit was more interesting, telling about the young Empress and her rather unhappy life. We have seen the Spanish Riding School practice session before so we skipped that and headed over to the Kunsthistoriches Museum, only to find that it was closed today. The Natural History Museum is directly across from there, so we decided to tour that museum instead. It was a nice museum but I find that most of them are very much alike although I have not been to the ones in DC or NY yet.
Third day is Stephansdom and the Belvedere Gardens. We climbed the 349 spiral steps up the South Tower of Stephansdom and had a look around from the top. Then we went back down again and circled around the main entrance. We made our way to the lift for the North Tower so we could go up and see the Pummerin, the giant church bell. It weighs over 44,000 pounds! It used to take 8 men to ring the bell! Back down to the main church and a look at the altar, then off to walk to the Belvedere.
On our last visit, we happened to arrive at the Belvedere during a (graduation?) ceremony for troops. At the time, there was a parade, a military band and lots of spectators- quite festive! This time around, there were just groups of tourists but the Belvedere was still lovely. I love the reflecting pool and the gardens at the Upper Belvedere and then walking around to walk the gardens and fountain down to the Lower Belvedere. The gardens between the Upper and Lower buildings are not very crowded at all as most of the tour groups just see the area at the top and then get back on their bus.
We wandered around the gardens for awhile, then decided to find the Heeregeschichtliches Museum (Military History Museum). We had a general idea of its location and there were a few signs so we managed to eventually find it. It is housed a really cool set of buildings and the main focus of the museum is WW1 history. The displays were quite interesting, including displays about the use of biological warfare (mustard gas, etc) and also some remains of bunker roofs showing the damage done by shelling. There were some replicas of the shells and I was amazed at the size and weight of them as well as the giant hole one created that hit a bunker but did not explode. One of the most important items in the display is the car in which the Austrian heir to the throne was riding when he was killed by an assassin in Sarajevo, setting into motion the events that would start the First World War in 1914.
Arrived in Vienna today to warm weather! Quite a change from our last trip to Europe. We made the connecting flight to Vienna from Amsterdam- but just barely. Unfortunately our luggage did not make the flight, but I was prepared for that possibility so we had enough clothes to last a couple of days. We checked into our hotel and went out walking for a bit, getting our bearings as it's been several years since we last here.
On our second day in Vienna, it was overcast with possible rain so we decided to see some museums. We went to the Hofburg and saw the Sisi exhibit and the silver collection. The silver collection is mildly interesting but not something I would consider a must-see. The Sisi exhibit was more interesting, telling about the young Empress and her rather unhappy life. We have seen the Spanish Riding School practice session before so we skipped that and headed over to the Kunsthistoriches Museum, only to find that it was closed today. The Natural History Museum is directly across from there, so we decided to tour that museum instead. It was a nice museum but I find that most of them are very much alike although I have not been to the ones in DC or NY yet.
Third day is Stephansdom and the Belvedere Gardens. We climbed the 349 spiral steps up the South Tower of Stephansdom and had a look around from the top. Then we went back down again and circled around the main entrance. We made our way to the lift for the North Tower so we could go up and see the Pummerin, the giant church bell. It weighs over 44,000 pounds! It used to take 8 men to ring the bell! Back down to the main church and a look at the altar, then off to walk to the Belvedere.
On our last visit, we happened to arrive at the Belvedere during a (graduation?) ceremony for troops. At the time, there was a parade, a military band and lots of spectators- quite festive! This time around, there were just groups of tourists but the Belvedere was still lovely. I love the reflecting pool and the gardens at the Upper Belvedere and then walking around to walk the gardens and fountain down to the Lower Belvedere. The gardens between the Upper and Lower buildings are not very crowded at all as most of the tour groups just see the area at the top and then get back on their bus.
We wandered around the gardens for awhile, then decided to find the Heeregeschichtliches Museum (Military History Museum). We had a general idea of its location and there were a few signs so we managed to eventually find it. It is housed a really cool set of buildings and the main focus of the museum is WW1 history. The displays were quite interesting, including displays about the use of biological warfare (mustard gas, etc) and also some remains of bunker roofs showing the damage done by shelling. There were some replicas of the shells and I was amazed at the size and weight of them as well as the giant hole one created that hit a bunker but did not explode. One of the most important items in the display is the car in which the Austrian heir to the throne was riding when he was killed by an assassin in Sarajevo, setting into motion the events that would start the First World War in 1914.
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